Dermaplaning Pros and Cons: Will Your Hair Grow Back Thicker?

What Is Dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning has gained popularity over the last few years. It is a non-invasive cosmetic procedure that you can do from the comfort of your home, or with a trained aesthetician or dermatologist. Dermaplaning is a form of shaving, it involves removing the dead skin from the top layer of your skin and vellus hair (peach fuzz) from your face with the use of a scalpel or facial razor for smooth, soft, and radiant skin.


Kao Sori: The History of Face Shaving:

This shaving techniques originates back to a tradition Japanese technique called “kao sori” (which means face shaving in Japanese). Kao sori has been a beauty ritual in Japan for centuries. It is the process of using a straight razor to remove dead skin cells, fine hairs, and impurities from the face.

The history of kao sori can be traced back to the Edo period in Japan, which lasted from 1603 to 1867. During this time, only members of the samurai class were allowed to wear beards or moustaches. To maintain a clean and smooth appearance, they would shave their faces using a straight razor. The practice eventually spread to other social classes, and by the Meiji period (1868-1912), it had become a popular beauty ritual among Japanese women.

Today, kao sori is still a common practice in Japan. Many Japanese beauty salons now offer kao sori as a service, and there are also at-home kits available for those who prefer to do it themselves.

Does Dermaplaning Cause Your Hair To Grow Back Thicker?

A common misconception with shaving body hair is that it will cause the hair to grow back thicker and darker. There is currently no scientific research that supports this claim, and several studies have shown that shaving facial hair does not cause any changes on the thickness and rate of hair growth.

Why Does It Appear Like Your Hair Has Grown Back Thicker?

Dermaplaning or face shaving does not cause your hair to grow back thicker or darker. Multiple studies have found no changes after shaving. Although it can sometimes look as though your hair texture has changed, it hasn’t. Razors used for shaving creates a blunt cut on the surface of the hair, which can make the hair appear darker and thicker. The hair shaft remains the same thickness and colour as it was before shaving.

The Benefits of Dermaplaning:

  1. Exfoliation: Dermaplaning removes the top layer of dead skin cells, which can help unclog pores, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve skin texture and tone.
  2. Smooth skin: The removal of the vellus hair can make the skin appear smoother, brighter, and more youthful.
  3. Better skincare absorption: Dermaplaning can enhance the penetration of skincare products, allowing them to be more effective.
  4. No downtime: There is no downtime associated with dermaplaning, and patients can resume their normal activities immediately after the procedure.
  5. Improved makeup finish: Dermaplaning creates a smooth surface for makeup application, making it easier to apply and giving a flawless, smooth finish.
  6. Non-invasive: Dermaplaning is a non-invasive procedure that does not require any anesthesia or incisions.
  7. Stimulate collagen production: Dermaplaning can stimulate collagen production as it helps to stimulate the deeper layers of skin which encourages the production of collagen. This can improve skin elasticity and firmness over time.
  8. Instant results: Patients can see immediate results after the procedure, with brighter, smoother, and more even-toned skin.

Is Dermaplaning Suitable For All Skin Types?

Dermaplaning is safe for all skin types, excluding the with acne. Scraping over breakouts with a razor can cause further irritation and inflammation which can worsen the condition. Patients with active acne or rosacea may need to avoid this treatment, as well as those with skin conditions such as eczema or psoriasis. It is always recommended to consult with a skincare professional before undergoing any cosmetic procedure.

How Often You Should Dermaplane:

It is recommended that you should wait at least three to four weeks between each dermaplaning session to allow the skin to regenerate. Frequent dermaplaning without allowing for your skin to repair can cause the same problems that come with over exfoliation such as redness, irritation and other signs of sensitivity. When it comes to dermaplaning, consider factors such as your skin type, concerns, and overall skincare routine as some skin types may be more resilient to dermaplaning than others.

After dermaplaning, using skincare products with soothing ingredients like ceramides such as the CeraVe products, which can help to keep your skins barrier strong and healthy.

The Cons of Dermaplaning:

While dermaplaning has many benefits, there are also some potential cons to be aware of. These include:

  1. Risk of cuts and nicks: The use of a sharp blade on the skin can increase the risk of cuts, nicks, or abrasions, which can lead to scarring or infection if not properly cared for.
  2. Increased sensitivity: Dermaplaning can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is important to use sunscreen and avoid direct sun exposure for a few days after the procedure.
  3. Not suitable for active acne or skin conditions: Dermaplaning can irritate and worsen active acne, rosacea, or other skin conditions, so it is not recommended for individuals with these conditions.
  4. Temporary redness and irritation: Some individuals may experience temporary redness, irritation, or mild swelling following dermaplaning.
  5. Short-term results: While dermaplaning can provide immediate results, these are typically temporary and will require ongoing treatments to maintain.
  6. Limitations on hair type: Dermaplaning is typically only effective for removing fine vellus hair, not coarse or thick hair.

How To Dermplane At Home:

Using a facial razor, here are the steps to follow to Dermaplane at home:

  1. Start with clean, dry skin: Before shaving, it is important to cleanse your face thoroughly to remove any dirt, oil, or makeup.
  2. Choose the right tool: Use a facial razor and make sure the blade is sharp and clean.
  3. Apply an oil or moisturiser to the face: Using a facial oil or moisturiser will help the razor slide across your skin more smoothly and reduce the risk of cuts and irritation.
  4. Shave in the direction of hair growth: To avoid irritation or ingrown hairs, shave in the direction of hair growth, using gentle, upward strokes.
  5. Be gentle: Avoid pressing too hard or using too much force, as this can increase the risk of cuts or irritation.
  6. Rinse and moisturize: After shaving, rinse your face with cool water and apply a gentle moisturizer to soothe and hydrate the skin.


In summary, dermaplaning is a popular cosmetic procedure that involves the use of a scalpel-like tool to gently exfoliate the outermost layer of dead skin cells and fine vellus hair from the face. This non-invasive treatment can provide a range of benefits, including smoother, brighter, and more even-toned skin, improved product absorption, and enhanced makeup application. However, it is important to be aware of potential risks and limitations, such as the risk of cuts or nicks, increased sensitivity to the sun, and the need for ongoing treatments to maintain results.

By Rhysa Phommachanh, BA (Hons) Skincare and Media Makeup Specialist